Shakespeare, Turner and a Cave on Lundy

Brazen ward Lundy

If you walk along the Lower East path, on the cliffs between Brazen Ward and Mousehole & Trap, you’ll find one of the island’s more mysteriously named places — Queen Mab’s Grotto, Lundy.

The History of Queen Mab’s Grotto

The cave is thought to have been formed naturally, thousands of years ago by the action of the sea. Early accounts suggest, shells had once been found on the cave floor – evidence perhaps of an ancient shoreline? A visit much later in 1967, by the Shepton Mallet Caving Club, found no sign of these shells.

At around 26 feet long, with marshy ground underfoot and ferns growing along the damp walls, it has an atmosphere that feels both historic and slightly unreal.

The view outside from Iside – Photograph courtesy of Matt Scantlebury

What is known is that the cave was likely used as an ammunition store for the battery at Brazen Ward. This was during the Napoleonic Wars between 1805 and 1815.

So Queen Mab’s cave could be considered both a natural coastal grotto, which might have been partially submerged. But, also an artificial grotto, with man-made rockwork, surrounding its entrance.

The Mystery of Queen Mab’s Grotto

The cave is tucked into the cliffs and difficult to reach unless you are particularly agile and sure-footed. I have explored other caves on Lundy; Benson’s Cave, Old Mans cave but I have never attempted Queen Mab’s Grotto. With its mysterious name and shaped like a tortoise shell. This place feels that it belongs more to my love of folklore, than my usual cartographic exploration.

Quuen Mabbs grotto

The closest that I have been to the mystery of the Grotto, was a magical experience whilst swimming at Brazen Ward. Razor Bills, with fast fluttering wings, constantly flying a ‘hairs whisker’ over our heads. They darted from the cliffs by the Grotto out to sea and back again. With their rapid wingbeats and low, darting flight paths over the water, they brought an ethereal magic, akin to the fae.

But why Queen Mab?

Queen Mab in Romeo and Juliet

The name is linked to William Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, where Mercutio in Act One, Scene four, Shakespeare describes Queen Mab as “the fairies’ midwife” — a mysterious figure who rides through the night bringing dreams to sleepers. I have placed a Youtube video at the end of this blog post, its worth a watch.

Queen Mab, later became woven into wider folklore as a kind of fairy queen; elusive, magical and slightly unsettling.

Standing near the cave, it’s easy to understand why someone might have given it that name.

J. M. W. Turner and Queen Mab’s Cave

What fascinates me most is the grotto’s link to one of my favourite artists, J. M. W. Turner. Turner exhibited his painting Queen Mab’s Cave in 1846, the painting creates a dreamlike, atmospheric scene full of shadows and fairies.

Queen Mab’s Grotto, J. M. W. Turner

I’ve always loved Turner’s work because it often feels almost abstract — colours dissolving into mist and light. His muted tones remind me of Lundy itself, especially when fog drifts over the island and the landscape begins to blur.

There’s also an intriguing Devon connection. Turner’s father was born in South Molton, North Devon and we know Turner visited Barnstaple on more than one occasion, sketching scenes including Barnstaple Bridge.

Which raises an interesting question:

Did Turner ever actually visit Lundy?

There seems to be no definitive evidence that he did, but it doesn’t feel impossible. An island of caves, cliffs, castles, ships and shifting light would surely have appealed to him. It does not take too much imagination, to visualise, Turner standing somewhere along these cliffs, with sketchbook in hand.

If you are letterboxing on Lundy, you’ll also find a small nod to Turner hidden away — an image of the painting appears in the letterbox at Mousehole and Trap.

Romeo & Juliet and a Modern Queen Mab

As an aside, the actress Miranda Richardson — who played Queen Mab in in the classic 1998 Hallmark/NBC television miniseries Merlin — once stayed with friends on Lundy at Millcombe House. It was about three years ago, I remember serving her dinner in the Marisco Tavern. She was ‘very nice and very normal’.

Perhaps that’s another reason I enjoy stories like this. They create strange little connections across time: Shakespeare, Turner, Hollywood, old caves, Napoleonic soldiers, letterboxes, and modern walkers all somehow meeting on a small island in the Bristol Channel.

Visiting Queen Mab’s Grotto Safely

The cave itself is difficult to access safely, so it’s best admired from a distance, unless you are experienced on this kind of terrain. Maybe do what I did the other day. I simply lay on a big granite rock, overlooking Brazen Ward and just imagined a world of the fae.

In the meantime, enjoy the clip from Romeo and Juliet — and next time you walk the East Side path, keep an eye out for Queen Mab.

And if anyone knows more about when the cave first became known as Queen Mab’s Grotto, I’d genuinely love to hear the story. I can only imagine it was named by the Heaven family as the dates match, but I could be wrong.


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