There is a side of Lundy that most day visitors never get to experience. It happens after the MS Oldenburg turns away from the Jetty and begins her journey back across the Bristol Channel to either Bideford or Ilfracombe.
When the ship leaves
Often I see the ship leave, either from the window in the Marisco Tavern or from my window at my house in Bartons. Sometimes I am on the Jetty then I wish that I could jump onboard – a quick trip home to the mainland would be lovely.
But as the ship leaves its wake behind, I notice that the Island does really change when the boat leaves. This is one of the reasons why Lundy keeps me here.
As the ship becomes smaller on the horizon, the bustle of the day begins to fade. There is an air of stillness that settles over the island.
Lundy becomes a different place.
The daytime is busy
During the day there is always movement. On ‘Boat days’ Visitors arrive, many of them new to the island and full of questions. Often asking where to find the puffins, how long it takes to walk to the North End, where are the toilets do we Islanders commute from the mainland to work or do we actually live here all year round.
With Land Rovers ferrying people up the Beach road, or housekeepers around the island. Quad bikes, busy on the farm or on luggage delivery. The island is alive with the practical rhythm of hosting a couple of hundred people who have arrived. Some for the day, some staying in one of the 22 properties.
When the Island goes quiet
Once the ship has gone, all of this comes to an end.
There are no more questions to answer. The last suitcase has been delivered to its holiday property. The Land Rovers return to their parking places and the familiar sounds of power tools, engines and working life gradually disappear. Just the hum of the Generator remains.
End of the working day – For Some!
Apart from the team preparing for the evening in the Marisco Tavern, most of the staff have finished for the day. Some gather outside to chat over a well-earned drink, catching up on the day’s events and opening parcels that have arrived on the MS Oldenburg.
As the working day comes to an end, the island itself begins to change. The evening light softens the granite and the sea reflects the colours of the setting sun. This is a time when I love to head out for a walk.
When Nature Takes Over
Without the constant movement of visitors, I notice things that are easily overlooked during the day. The paths are quieter and its just my footsteps on the gravel I can hear. The sounds of everyday work has disappeared. There are no Land Rovers passing by, no quad bikes carrying supplies and fewer voices drifting across the valley.
One of my favourite sights is the way the light changes. The bracken catches the sun. What was green only an hour before now glows a rich orange, as though the hillsides have been lit from within.
The wildlife notices the change
Without this noise, the sound of the sea becomes much more noticeable. You can hear skylarks, Ravens, Starlings preparing for the end of the day. The sika deer seem to know exactly when the ship has sailed, emerging from the undergrowth and wandering closer to the village. It is almost as though they have learnt the island’s timetable. During the busy part of the day they remain hidden, but once the day visitors have gone they reclaim the landscape with quiet confidence.
Although the day visitors have returned to the mainland, the island is not empty. In the Summer there can be anywhere between 70-140 visitors staying on the island. (In winter this can drop to as little as 20).
The Island’s rhythm
Everyone I meet now, is staying on Lundy. Some have only just arrived and are still finding their bearings, whilst others have been on the island a few days, are already settled into Lundy’s rhythm. It creates an interesting moment where two groups overlap. Those who have spent several days exploring the island happily share their discoveries with those who have only just unpacked their bags. Advice is exchanged about favourite walks, recent puffin sightings and hidden corners worth exploring before the week is over.
Most visitors find themselves in the Marisco Tavern. Some having a drink before leaving for their property, others arriving to sample the evening menu in the Tavern. The atmosphere is different now. The bustle of the daytime has disappeared and conversations become more relaxed. Visiting sailors who have arrived by yacht sometimes make the climb to the village for a meal before returning to their boats. Occasionally a RIB arrives from Tenby and Welsh voices mingle with London accents around the tables. For a few hours everyone becomes part of the same temporary community before the cycle begins again with the next ship.
Missing the Ship
What happens if someone misses the ship ?
It does happen and its a question I often get asked. Over the years I have seen the MS Oldenburg turn back to collect a late passenger, and I have also known people who have had to find the money for an unexpected extra night because they simply didn’t make it back to the Jetty in time. (Accomodation is not guaranteed, before you are tempted to do this). There are stories of people trying to hide in the hope of staying a little longer, but the passengers are carefully counted as they board and tickets are checked. Escaping the return journey is much harder than the rumours suggest.
As darkness begins to fall, I often find myself thinking that this is the Lundy I love most. Not because it is empty, but because it has returned to its own natural rhythm. The island no longer feels like somewhere to tick off a list, Instead, it becomes a place simply to be.
Standing quietly on the path, with the orange bracken glowing in the last light, the sea stretching away into the distance and the deer beginning to emerge, it is easy to understand why so many people return to Lundy year after year. For me, this quiet hour after the ship has sailed, is when the island feels most like itself.
Nb. I have used the term Ship, Boat and Ferry interchangeably. The MS Oldenburg is indeed a ship, but we Islanders often refer to it as a Boat. However, as it carries passengers and cargo across water, it is a Ferry.
If you enjoy reflections on walking, island life and the quieter moments that often go unnoticed, you’re very welcome to subscribe. I publish new blogs from Lundy and beyond each week.
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